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British designers, and it shows just how the Central
Saint Martin’s system of training does work.
Who in the fashion world do you aspire to be like,
and why?
I admire Phoebe Philo so much and always have. She
is an amazing designer with amazing taste creating
clothes for quality women with style. She has had an
amazing career, and still does, but most importantly
she did it her own way. This is an extremely odd
industry where people love to follow rules and modes,
but the true geniuses of fashion never do. Mark Fast,
out of all the new generation London designers, is for
me is the most inspirational. Always kind and friendly,
he told me to rebel against what everyone says to
me. It helps that his work blows my mind too!
It’s been mentioned that your main influences are
films like BladeRunner and 80’s sci-fi. What is it
about this period that inspires you?
I love the 80’s because it was such a weird transitional
period. They were so obsessed with film noir
and the clothing and moods of the 1930/40’s with extreme
shapes and sultry women. I love the costumes
and style lines from films like Blade Runner and Tron
because they are so out of this world that they create
this huge buzz of ideas in my head.
Your designs are thought to be feminine but tough
due to features like sharp, architectural shoulders.
Is this your vision of the ideal woman?
designed a collection of separates because I wanted
the Graduate collection to be my first collection. I
know from working at magazines that it is hard to
style a collection unless it can be styled with other
designers’ work in order to make the whole idea
happen. I love it when I see my pieces styled with
other designers like Prada and Donna Karan. My
ideal woman can wear any brand and dress how she
likes at any time and feel comfortable. I hate people
that dress differently just for other people...so many
sheep.
You won the L’Oreal Professionnel Womenswear
Award at the CSM degree show - what’s next?
I am showing this season with Vauxhall Fashion Scout
for SS/10. I did have other options on the table, but
after meeting with Martyn and David and speaking
with them, I knew they were whom I wanted to work
with. They are in it as much for the designers as they
are for themselves. I am developing my brand and
collection with their generous support and really could
not have
done this season without them. Doing a show at
fashion week straight after your BA is a very difficult
thing mainly because of the short window of time you
have to set yourself up as a working business, as well
as making the collection. They believed in me, and
this made me go for it.
One of your techniques is lining your clothes with
tape to keep them flat against the body. Do you
use any other devices like this?
My garments are all very professionally finished. I
met a student in the year below me at university that
helped me so much with devices like that. I would
hate to have made a collection that was uncomfortable
to wear or walk in. What would be the point?
Design because you love women, not because you
hate them.
[Turn the page to see Dean’s work]
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