What is your favourite piece of clothing
ever and why?
I don’t love anything for long periods of
time. I would say that black tights have
stuck as my one and only constant. They
do have to be the right fabric and never be
itchy, too short, or loose.
Being a new designer, what are your
plans for your next collection and the
next year? Are you planning to exhibit
at NYFW for A/W '10? How was it showing
your first collection at NYFW this
year?
I do plan to show during NY fashion week
for FW 2010 in February. The collection will
again be primarily focused around the cuts
and curves of the body (pattern making
more than anything else). The silhouettes
should be a bit more dramatic and layered
since this is for the FW season. Black will
definitely be the majority, but I am also
introducing greens, greys, whites, nudes,
pastel pinks, and minty and forest greens;
it will have a bit more of a “ghostly” feel,
but I can play with the larger volumes that
AW affords.
Is there an item you wish you designed
or want to design in the future?
There are always things to be designed
and redesigned. There were some pieces
that I did not have time to make for S/S
2010 and will carry them into this season
if I see fit. I had produced the entire col-
lection on my own and therefore could not
possibly execute every single thing that I
imagined for the collection—physically as
well as financially.
Apart from cats, what other animal
holds a special place in your heart?
I just like cats.
What do you think of cats being
dressed like people? Would you create
a special piece for your cat and let him
walk in your show?
I don’t care about that sort of thing. I
wouldn’t change Sveater’s appearance at
all, other than getting him a lion cut every
now and then (he is in need of one now). I
have considered including him and other
cats in a presentation at some point in the
future.
And keeping it current, what do you
think of this whole plus-size model
debate? Do you think they should be
referred to as plus size? Would you use
plus-size models?
I think the debate is ridiculous. Models
then and now are meant to be very tall and
thin only because this sells the look most
effectively. I am open to all forms of beauty
of course, but the fashion industry is a
specific one. Height and size is unfortunately
yet luckily a very strict standard.
The taller, the skinnier; the more dramatic
the clothes look on. It’s just a tradition of
aesthetic priority— this doesn’t mean
that a larger body wouldn’t look great in
the garment in real life situations. In most
cases, a fuller form could suit the design
more successfully.
I wouldn’t use plus-size models. I use a
size 4 dress form, and use myself as a
general fit model. It's less expensive to
buy fabric for smaller patterns. It’s harder
on me to do such a thing and for what
reason? People overlook how pieces are
actually made and draped in these situations;
a pattern is much more awkward
to grade down from a larger size into a
smaller one.
Going on from showing at NYFW, what's
the reaction been from press, investors,
stores, friends, family...
Press has been amazing. We've spoken
and confirmed with some great buyers,
and everyone has been great with promoting
the line and getting excited about it as
well as what's to come…
What fabrics do you want to work with
for your next collection?
I'm still working with a lot of treated leathers,
and working with a bit of custom-dyed
silk, and treated wools. I don't use synthetics
except for stretch pieces... but we're
moving a bit away from black this time!
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