PICTURE: ISTOCK
DESTINATIONS TURKEY
✈
A LAND OF CAVES
As well excavating underground
cities, the Cappadocians retreated
into their steep valleys and burrowed
into the hillsides, forming cave
dwellings, which you can see all
over the region.
At Zelve, erosion has exposed
row after row of cave homes on either
side of a valley. On one side, there are
cave churches; on the other, a cave
mosque, evidence that sometimes
the Christian and Muslim populations
lived in harmony.
The most famous caves are
in the Goreme open-air museum.
This complex of chapels and
monasteries is a draw for religious
tourists and curious secular visitors
alike. Exquisitely coloured frescos
dating from the 11th to13th century
are painted all over the walls hidden
deep inside the rock. The most
impressive is the Dark Church
or Karanlik Kilise, where pigeon
droppings coated the walls until
the 1950s, protecting the paintings.
It took 14 years to scrape the guano
off , but the result is spectacular.
The most stupendous cave
structures run right up inside large
hills. Selime Kalesi was both a fortress
and a monastery before becoming
a caravanserai – a sort of truck stop
for traders – and you can see where
camels could be led up inside the
WHERE TO STAY
Joanna Booth stayed at the
boutique cave hotel Serinn
House in Urgup.
This absolutely exquisite boutique
hotel, housed in a renovated cave
house, makes a fantastic base to
see the whole region.
Many of the properties in the area
are very old-school Turkish, with
antique furniture and traditional
carpets. Serinn House is a breath
of fresh air and really well suited
to clients used to the more modern
design of city boutique hotels.
Four of the fi ve rooms are built into
34 | Travel Weekly | July 3 2009
Serrin House
is modern
and luxurious
caves; one stands in another section of
the house with a high curving roof. All
have designer furniture and luxurious
bathrooms with walk-in showers.
The breakfasts, served on the
terrace with views over the mountains,
are something special and include
goodies such as fresh strawberry
scones and home-baked specialities
such as cheese and spinach borek,
as well as freshly baked bread.
Cappadocia’s not a place visitors
come for rowdy nightlife, and the
provision of a cosy lounge for guests
is a great touch. There’s a laptop with
free internet access, a TV with a DVD
Rooms are
furnished with
designer stock
library and satellite channels, and a
selection of CDs. It’s the perfect place
to have a cup of tea or a glass of wine,
before deciding which restaurant
to head to for dinner, or as a place
to settle down in front of a fi lm after
a busy day mountain biking.
Owner Eren Serpen is infi nitely
helpful and kind. She speaks fl uent
English and Italian and can organise
guided sightseeing tours, treks,
horse riding, car and bicycle rental
and hot-air balloon fl ights, as well
as recommending great places to
eat in the area.
8serinnhouse.com
www.travelweekly.co.uk
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